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[bronigs]

To wiiwonwon: If you want to flash while the chip is inside the system you have to remove the R pad from the GND and run the system.

Tonight has been very frustrating, although I did finally get the chip to work on my D2C2 USA Wii for one game load. Basically I upgraded my chip to Final2.0 and installed the chip, the first attempt the BLUE LED on the chip lite up but the games wouldnt load (I figured it was a CLK issue). So I wrapped the C with a grounded wire, then went to boot the system the system booted both an Original and the a Backup. Then I attempt to boot another backup in the system, got an error on the screen saying to eject the disc and restart the system. So I went and eject/restarted the system, after this restart is when everything went badly. The system rebooted and the BLUE LED didnt lite up, I went to insert game and the drive was acting like it was dead. The drive would accept discs but would not spin the discs at all (tried many many times). So I removed the chip once again, the drive started to work again (originals only of course).

[Console Hardware]

To wiiwonwon: If you want to flash while the chip is inside the system you have to remove the R pad from the GND and run the system.

Tonight has been very frustrating, although I did finally get the chip to work on my D2C2 USA Wii for one game load. Basically I upgraded my chip to Final2.0 and installed the chip, the first attempt the BLUE LED on the chip lite up but the games wouldnt load (I figured it was a CLK issue). So I wrapped the C with a grounded wire, then went to boot the system the system booted both an Original and the a Backup. Then I attempt to boot another backup in the system, got an error on the screen saying to eject the disc and restart the system. So I went and eject/restarted the system, after this restart is when everything went badly. The system rebooted and the BLUE LED didnt lite up, I went to insert game and the drive was acting like it was dead. The drive would accept discs but would not spin the discs at all (tried many many times). So I removed the chip once again, the drive started to work again (originals only of course).

I experienced the same things. Just keep you're wires as short as possible and wrap your CLK with GND nice and tight.
Then it should work, well it did for me.

[alltalk]

serial leh 191 pal
installed every which way possible and all that happens is the disc inserts jerkily and then the machine clicks and resets constantly - disc doesn't spin and won't eject
tried every firmware
any advice from anyone?

[sisgene]

Hi.

It's the following feedback, started on the closed thread :
http://www.infectus.biz/forum/index.php?topic=2159.msg15345#msg15345

I did a second LEH185, PAL, with A3P125, early batch.

Again, it's the first firmware working, all previous gave DEAD drive.
For now, no problem nor eject nor locked in disk, better the first one.

And again, the led is ALWAYS off.

Used a two twisted wires for the OSC0, and grounded only one side (as recommanded below 20MHz).

The D2C chip have only one line printed "light".

Bye

[OscarHS]

hi guys...

well here we are near to be CRAZY ! All wii that we tested here are working, but seams that on some kind of wii still problems...
Now is difficout to say if is a bad insatallation, noise on clock etc... but we cannot lose more time to fix ARGON SPI firmwares.

I suggest to use one WIICLIP to check if the WII can be compatible with ARGON SPI before install it with wires... this is the only suggestion..

I think all the problems have origin from the CLK...

The time table now will be so:

1- Finish the porting of ARGON SPI on ARGON2 hardware, hardware that have a 16Mbit flash on board for new cool features and the 24Mhz oscillator that will give a LOT of stability to the porject. ARGON2 will support D2E too, probably this will delay a little bit the release, but this time we want to release a PERFECT modchip (and we have time until beginning of next season). We thing to reach target in 2 weeks sure end of july.

2- After finish of ARGON2 HARDWARE and CODE we will port this code on INFECTUS2, infact INFECTUS2 has 24Mhz oscillator on board and we want to port the ARGON2 source code on INFECTUS2. So INFECTUS2 users have to wait a little bit more but finally will have an ARGON2 code on board with D2E support. In august we will release it for all, so don't worry INFECTUS2 will have a new LONG life again.

3- After finish the porting of INFECTUS2 code we will release ARGON SPI D2E support... this to don't forget old ARGON users.

Ahhh in few days will be release the DVD UPGRADE TOOL for all argon spi versions.

PS: ARGON2 and INFECTUS2 will have quite sure old DMS board support.

INFECTUS TEAM

[davide]

Thanks.
Interesting schedulation... no holiday?!?   

[queekus]

Wow, so no more updates and he recommends a crappy wiiclip.

We are trying to use your product and have stuck with it thus far.

I have about 30 argon 250's perhaps i would like to sell until the new argon chip comes out.

here is a photo of my install:


I just locks up the wii with any disc original or backup.

i have installed hundreds of the 19 wire install argons, so im very familiar with them.

I have tried shortening the clk wire and i have tried wrapping it with a ground, all to no avail.


LU581441__

fell free if you want to purchase some argon 250's brand new never opened in packaging, im in Seattle, WA

Lane

[wiggim]

..Why the fight to remove the osc? worked with one in there, just to save $5 on manufacturing?

[VenomIce]

Have anyone been able to get it working on NTSC systems? it seems like the infectus people only tested Pal machines cause I haven't seen any possitive result from US installer. I think the region setting or R point connect to ground has a lot to do with these failure reports.

[burnzy]

seems all the people having problems are on NTSC? also fromt he installation pictures alot of the people with problems aren't connecting to the chip leg but to the clock pad, im pretty sure theres extra noise to be had there.

[queekus]

seems all the people having problems are on NTSC? also fromt he installation pictures alot of the people with problems aren't connecting to the chip leg but to the clock pad, im pretty sure theres extra noise to be had there.

did not make a difference




:-(

[bronigs]

hey queekus, maybe you'll have better luck then me. I've seen people rotate there chips to make the C as short as possible. (You'll need to use an alternate GND and 3.3V). Also wrapping the the C with a gnd might work. I also soldered my G/H/I wires on the back alternate points (I orginally tried on the chip on the normal points but chip wouldn't even give me a blue light), if your getting a blue light I'm pretty sure the C is messed up, so just try to work it. I haven't really gotten mine to function properly either on my US system, look at my post at the top of the page for details.

I honestly think that when the R is shorted to the GND theres interference or maybe more heat and the chip acts funny, Infectus should release a separate firmwares one for NTSC and one for PAL.

[VenomIce]

hi guys...

well here we are near to be CRAZY ! All wii that we tested here are working........

Any NTSC Wii get tested?

[burnzy]

can't see too well but from here it looks liek you soldered onto the wrong leg? it's the second from the right.

[idog]

i have installed hundreds of the 19 wire install argons, so im very familiar with them.

LOL